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  Posted: May 29 2004, 05:49 AM
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By: Paula Devlin

For forty years the ordinary American has taken a back seat to every cockamamie globalist scheme floated across the land, secure in the myth that our Constitutional protections would right the ship of state and all would be well. Now we must face the hard fact that others do not have the survival of the Republic in mind.

At this point, it does not matter who is behind it. What matters is what we are going to do to survive, take back our nation, Constitutional law and put Christianity back into the public forum.

The first order of business is to prepare oneself. Since any undertaking is bound to fail without Divine intervention, getting one’s spiritual house in order is paramount. Unrepentant, randy old sinners don’t live in God’s favor. A thorough housecleaning is in order, followed by a strict regimen of prayer and (sorry to shock the sybarites) sacrifice, in the form of self-denial.

The next level is household preparations. A will and instructions to your family, no debts, a supply of non-perishables and some hard currency will form a solid base. A method of survival without public utilities would be wise, particularly heat (and a generator for the computer?). A garden of heirloom vegetables is a good idea (and this can be a trusted-neighbor project) as is the ability to put them up for the winter. Guns and other means of self-defense are essential, what with the track record of radical Islam to chop off the heads of non-believers. Since we are not allowed to have crèches in public places and they can blast their prayers all over Christians, it looks like the government is on their side. That is a good reason not to count on the government to protect us.

Another group to watch is the illegals and their druggie gangs. They are being allowed to run amuck with their activities and some days it is hard to distinguish Albuquerque from Iraq. I’m sure it is the same in most cities and that aspect of the news is suppressed. These monsters are another variety of domestic terrorist that should have been squelched by the War on Drugs. But no, with our open borders, drugs, money and terrorists can travel more freely than citizens.

The lack of control over our borders clearly indicates that our beloved government has invited the next attack. Sending troops overseas and leaving us wide open to 10,000 illegal entries daily is nuts – or evil. Either way, we must deal with the consequences and not count on government for the proper response. The politicians and judiciary have shown time and again they are not to be trusted with their Constitutional responsibilities.

Organizing on the community level is difficult as the government is paranoid about so-called militias and other organizations critical of its unconstitutional activities (such as Waco and Ruby Ridge). CIA and FBI (to say nothing of the federal bureaucracy) seem to have been so infiltrated by Mossad, KGB and Chinese spies that they are useless. Only Hercules could clean out those stables! Because of that, some form of local organization is necessary, ready to deal with the upcoming crises.

Friends and family should be the first ones to be organized. I would caution against using the telephone or computer to make any plans, as the dudes at NSA and Fort Meade monitor every hiccup. Snail mail and face-to-face conversations are the best way. Any serious planning should be done in public places where the spy satellites would have trouble sorting out your conversation from the background noise. They can listen to everything going on in your house now, unless you have ¼" metal ceilings.

With the next national emergency there will be curfews in the cities and what’s left of the National Guard will be called out. There will be an international stock market collapse and banks will fold, mortgages will be foreclosed. Since more than half our national debt is held by China and Japan, guess who will take control of the economy? Oil prices will make international transportation of food very expensive. These are things to discuss with your friends and extended family and form an action plan.

Having a 72 hour pack for each family member (including the pets) should be done now. That is in case of an evacuation. Even if yours is not on the A list of cities, you never know what kind of mayhem may be in the offing for your community. Suggestions for disaster supply kits can be found on the internet. Florida Emergency Management ( has a good one.

With all the braying from Washington about the next terrorist attack, it means ducks are lined up. We may never know for sure who the masterminds and the perps are, but we can’t rule out anyone.

The things you can count on over the long haul are God, gold and guns, supported by loving family and friends. Without loving family and friends, you won’t have much need for the gold or guns.

"Published originally at : republication allowed with this notice and hyperlink intact."

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Paula Devlin is a former New Englander who bolted to the Rocky Mountain West, where the air is clean, the stars are brilliant and men still put their pants on one leg at a time. Paula is a regular columnist for Ether Zone.

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Posted: May 29 2004, 11:12 AM
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A decent article Soj. Not sure I care for the slamming of other religions but the rest of it was good.

Personally though I'd prefer a bit more solid info such as what to pack in an evac kit or what sort of plan would work best in what sort of emergency.

May you know Love and Laughter in your life.
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Posted: May 29 2004, 06:13 PM
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You want something a bit more practical? Okay. This is an article I wrote for a preparedness journal in 1994 and added a few things five years later, during the Y2K scare. Now it’s five years after THAT, and some of the stuff still may be helpful to you.


Don’t argue, just pick your scenario – something really bad has happened. Understand that the infrastructure is breaking down. No food deliveries, no money, no jobs. Consider: riots and fires, with the cops and firemen powerless. About time to get out of town, away to that place you’d picked out -- back when the picking was good. Now would be a good to review this.
You have your month’s worth of MREs to feed you and yours. Your Mini-14 will keep the Bad Guys at bay, your first aid kit will keep your wounds bandaged, and the 12-gauge and .22 will get you the game you need, until….

Until when?

If things get bad, we simply can’t rely on stored food, weapons, and high hopes to keep our family alive. Your stored food will only last so long. Living off the land? No way. Within two weeks of an exodus to the countryside, every deer, bunny, and round-tailed ground squirrel in the woods would be high-tailing it to Upper Manitoba, and the bulk of those self-styled survivalists would be dead of poison mushrooms, dehydration, or gunshot from their fellow refugees or a farmer who simply doesn’t want to share.
Face it: we can no longer live off the land. First, there are too many of us (hunter-gatherers require a square mile apiece to feed themselves). Second, we just don’t have the skills. If you want to maintain life in the face of a major breakdown of the infrastructure, you have only one realistic choice: grow your own food.

And you can do it, of course. If you live in a remote rural area with a big garden, you’re already home free. If you’ve ever gardened before and have a small plot in your back yard, you’re ahead of the game. But what are you going to do if you have to relocate? Pick up your garden and take it with you?

In a way, yes! This article will give you the information on how to prepare everything you need to grow food. You’ll start by selecting and acquiring seeds that fit all the requirements of location, nutrition, and taste. You’ll be able to put this together for less than $150. It’ll all fit into a five-gallon plastic bucket, and will be safe and usable for at least five years. Most importantly, you’ll be able to toss the bucket, along with some carefully-chosen tools, into the back of your pickup and head out with the reasonable expectation of being able to feed yourself and your family for the rest of your lives.
Sounds interesting?

Read on.




Posted: May 29 2004, 06:15 PM
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There’re four tasks to designing the long-term survival bucket, and we’ll go through each task in order. In some cases we’ll divide each task into several steps. Please read everything before you start, and make sure you know exactly what you’re doing before going on! Like almost everything else, careful planning and not getting ahead of yourself will make this a straightforward and easy job.


What grows in a mountain valley will probably not grow well in a desert. Coastal plain vegetables might not make it in the bayou. You need to have a good idea of what kind of soil, sunlight, temperature, growing season, and water is available, and choose your seeds accordingly.

Visit your candidate location, if possible, before you have to. Find out from an almanac or the county extension agent the following:

• Rainfall by month

• Average temperature by month

• Amount of sunlight

• Dates of first and last frosts

• Common pests (insects and microorganisms)

• Common crops

• Type of soil.

Soil type will require a bit more research. Your best bet is to take some to the county agent for testing, or, you can take some home and test it yourself with a soil-testing kit. These kits are available at most nurseries and some of the larger hardware stores. Make sure the kit has the capability for measuring nutrient values, such as nitrogen, etc., and can also measure pH, or acidity. (We’ll talk more about the soil kit later.)

If you have a chance to talk with some of the locals, you’d be surprised how helpful they can be. Most gardeners love to talk shop with other gardeners, and they’ll probably have the best practical information about growing vegetables there.

At the end of this step, you should know all the necessary stuff about your future food-factory. You cannot believe how important this information is, because it’s directly applied in….


This step is the biggie. This is where you start doing serious research and spending money, so take your time. Read and re-read the three steps I’ve outlined here before going any further.

Step 2-1. Choose for Climate. Almost everyone knows that you can’t grow citrus in the mountains or lettuce in the desert. If it ever gets below freezing, you can’t grow tropical fruit, either. But there’s more to it than that. Even with vegetables that can grow in a wide range of environments, there are varieties designed for early frost, late frost, cool, warm, short season, long season, … you get the picture.

Start your research in the library, with general purpose garden books and pamphlets from the County extension agent. Follow up with a visit to a nursery, preferably in the same area where you think you’ll be planting. Talk to the local nurseryman to find out what he recommends for that area.

If you have to research somewhere else, go to the largest nursery you can find and get a nurseryman who is knowledgeable; tell him exactly the growing constraints and ask for suggestions. Hopefully, you’ll find a professional who can give you the information. Now, make a list of every vegetable that you’re remotely interested in that will grow in your garden, and take it home.

Bear in mind that, wherever you have your garden, there are some veggies that grow during the warm season and some that grow during the cool season. This means in most cases, you can have two crops. You’ll be able to look at the seed-packets and tell which of the two times those vegetables will be started. In general, though, common vegetables break out like this:

WARM-SEASON CROP: tomatoes, string beans, summer squash, cucumbers, corn, okra, eggplant, lima beans, peppers, celery, collards, and pumpkins.

COLD-SEASON CROP: cabbage, lettuce, radishes, peas, chard, asparagus, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, spinach, beets, carrots, onions, turnips, potatoes, artichokes, Chinese cabbage, kale, mustard greens, and parsnips.

Step 2-2. Choose for Nutrition. Almost all vegetables are nutritious, but some are more nutritious than others. If you don’t have a book or seven on nutrition, as well as pamphlets from your health provider, go to the library right now and get them. Read, make notes, then start your list. Each of us has slightly different requirements, but all in all what keeps me healthy will probably do the same for you. Here’s my seed list, for what it’s worth (and I think it’s worth quite a bit):

Green Leaf Vegetables

Cabbage is nutritious, it works cooked or raw, and if you choose the right variety, you can grow it in a wide range of locations. Lettuce is good, but requires cool weather. Iceberg lettuce has the taste and nutrition value of cardboard, but other varieties are a better choice. Spinach is a winner. Raw or cooked, tasty, very high in vitamins. In addition to spinach, mustard, turnip, and collard greens are great sources of vitamins. I have seeds for all four of these dark green leafy veggies, as well as cabbage, cauliflower, and broccoli.


This is where the protein lives. Legumes have big seeds, and half of my bucket is taken up with them. But what a deal! More value, taste, and nutrition for their bulk than anything else I can think of. I have string beans (two varieties), peas (two varieties), snow peas, pintos, and navy beans. In addition, I also have soy beans for making soy-products and mung beans for sprouting. Peanuts (which is a pea, not a nut) would be a great addition, but the climate’s wrong for me.

Gourds, Melons, and Cucumbers

These are the guys that grow and grow and grow. With a few seeds, you’ll be able to harvest enough of these vegetables to feed a small army. I have cucumbers, summer squash, pumpkins, acorn squash, and zucchini. Watermelons, honeydew melons, and cantaloupe round out my choices.

Roots, Tubers, and Bulbs

Carrots (two varieties) brown baking potatoes, sweet potatoes, and yams. Sugar beets. Radishes, since they go from seed to stomach in 19 days and can be added to any salad. Two kinds of onions as well as leeks and garlic.


No, you don’t need ten square miles of South Dakota and a combine to grow wheat. A 20-foot by 20-foot plot, according to my sources, and a sickle will do fine, and wheat is not nearly as difficult to grow as you might think. Threshing it, on the other hand…. but that’s a different subject, and who could give up bread? Not I! I have Hard Red and Durum.


Tomatoes, beefsteak and cherry. Corn, two varieties. Several different peppers, including green, red, and jalapeno. Yow!

Fruits and Berries

Blackberries, raspberries peaches, pears, and plums (one variety each). I’d love citrus and grapes, but the climate’s wrong.


I don’t have an herb garden worked out. I plan on doing some more research and probably getting a commercial herb-garden collection. Since many herbs can be grown indoors, climate is not as critical a factor as it would be with outside crops. I know I want oregano, mint, parsley, garlic, coriander, cumin, as well as some medicinal herbs; but I can’t in all honesty give you any advice about that – yet.

Step 2-3. Choose for Taste. I don’t care how health and easy-to-grow a vegetable is: if you don’t like it, you probably won’t eat it, so don’t grow it – simple as that. (I’m assuming that you and your family WILL eat MOST vegetables.) Turnips, rutabagas, parsnips, and kohlrabi are, I’m sure, very nice to have, but I cannot abide them; you won’t see them in my garden. I love asparagus dearly, but the difficulty in growing it, as well as mushrooms, has eliminated them from my bucket.

Make your choice realistically. With a little luck, you’ll be eating those choices for a long time.




Posted: May 29 2004, 06:17 PM
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Here’s another labor-intensive task. I’ve broken it out in several steps.

Step 3-1. Get the bucket. You need to have a re-sealable bucket that is airtight and will stay airtight for years. You can get these buckets, complete with lid, rubber ring gasket, and a tool to open them, from a preparedness store. Don’t bother with anything less. Make sure the bucket’s at least 5- or 6-gallon capacity.

Step 3-2. Buy the seeds and re-store them. You have your list of seeds by now, chosen for climate, nutrition, and taste. Buy them from a reputable nursery or mail order catalog. Make sure the seeds are fresh, based on the harvest date or code on the packet. Open each packet carefully (do not take the seeds out) and put the packet in a breathable paper envelope or cloth bag. Label the envelope. I’ll explain why in a minute. You should have enough seeds to fill the bucket about 2/3 of the way.

This brings up a very important job: determining how many seeds you need. Here’s my approach; see if it makes sense for you.

1. I assume I will need enough seeds to grow vegetables for myself, family, and two people I may pick up along the way.

2. I’m going to use the seeds from my first crop to plant my second year’s crop, hopefully, but I want enough seeds for three years.

3. I assume there will be one crop failure per year, and I’ll have to re-plant the garden.

4. I assume that half the seeds will die during the next three or four years in the bucket, so I adjust accordingly.

Hopefully, I bought five or ten times as many seeds as I need, but they’re cheap, and I may not have the option to buy more seeds when I really need them. So you need to determine the yield (it’s usually on the package), figure out how many vegetables you will need to provide, and multiply that times the number of people and a BIG safety factor.

Hybrid versus Non-Hybrid Seeds

More and more people are choosing non-hybrid seeds for their garden, especially if they’re concerned about not being able to get more seeds next year. Hybrid seeds have been bred over the past years to provide good taste, extended growing season, and a good yield. The problem with hybrid seeds is that the second generation of plants (i.e., those you grow from the seeds produced by your first crop) do not always breed true. This means the second generation of plants might not be as good as the first. Non-hybrid seeds, on the other hand, are not “scientifically bred” to provide the best crop, but they do reproduce true.

I have talked with several people who have tried to grow second-generation vegetables from the seeds produced by hybridized vegetables. They report that most of the crops breed true, and since the hybrid veggies are usually so much more hardy, tasty, and abundant than the old-fashioned kind, the loss of vegetables caused by the seeds that don’t reproduce properly is more than made up for by the built-in advantages of hybrid seeds.

I do not know of any scientific studies investigating this; if you are planning on never being able to buy seeds commercially, then the non-hybrid seeds are probably better for your peace of mind.

Step 3-3. Get the other stuff. Remember your soil testing kit? Take the whole thing, tighten the caps of the reagents and other chemicals, collect the instructions, and put them in a zip-lock baggie, then in a sealable plastic (Tupperware) container. It may sound like a lot, but there’s no benefit in having your reagent spill all over your mung beans, right?

In addition to the soil testing kit, get three or four good books on gardening. I recommend organic (sometimes called bio-dynamic or French intensive) methods of gardening, so your books should address that approach. Several excellent books are “Growing More Vegetables” by John Jeavons and almost anything published by Rodale, of Emmaus, Pennsylvania. Put these books in a big manila envelope and seal it.

This brings up another point. In addition to the books you are buying for the bucket, there had better be some books you’re going to read before you actually start gardening. When you do, you will see that the deep-bed organic method is the only way that makes sense: you don’t need artificial fertilizers, you don’t spend much time weeding, and you get an incredible amount of crops from a small garden and relatively little water.

Step 3-4. Load and seal the bucket. You want your bucket to keep for a long time. To do this, you need to store it in a cool place and ensure that no seed-eating critters are locked up with the seeds. You do this by either charging your bucket with dry ice or adding oxygen-scavenging packets.

Dry ice is frozen carbon dioxide, (CO2), a colorless and tasteless gas that is a bit heavier than air. (Don’t confuse this with carbon monoxide, which is a deadly combustion by-product). Get a couple of pounds of it (be careful when handling it – it’s VERY cold and could injure you) and place it in the bottom of the bucket. Then, put in your seeds and other stuff and loosely put the lid on. The dry ice will sublime, that is, it will turn into a gas without going through a liquid phase. The resulting CO2 gas will push out the lighter air. Keep the lid on loosely and don’t shake the bucket. After an hour or so, the dry ice will be gone and the bucket filled with CO2 gas. Seal the bucket, and you’re in business.

An oxygen scavenger is a chemical in a bag that absorbs oxygen in the air like a desiccant bag absorbs water. They’re usually available at preparedness stores, too. Find out from the manufacturer how much you’ll need to scavenge out the oxygen from a 5-gallon bucket, slip the bags in there with your seeds and other stuff, and tighten the lid.

Both of these approaches remove oxygen from the bucket, which kills all the bugs. By the way, that’s why you opened the packets and put them in the breathable envelopes: so the oxygen could be forced out. Seal the bucket, write “long-term garden” or some such on it (along with the date), and you’re on your way.

I used to recommend charging the bucket with dry nitrogen (N2) as a way to remove oxygen. After several discussions with my LDS canning colleagues, I now do not recommend that you do this. Preliminary research says that N2 can damage the seeds. Since CO2 and oxygen-scavenging packets are as effective and can more easily be done at home, avoid N2.

Remember when I mentioned that seeds will die anyway, even sealed in a bucket? The mortality can be limited by the temperature. If you keep your bucket at an area between 60 and 70 degrees F, likely 85-90% of the seeds will still be viable in four or five years. Keep your bucket where it’s cool.


You’re almost done. You need only three things to finish up. First, the tools:

• Fork. No, not an eating implement, but a pitchfork for working the soil.

• Flat spade. This is used for dressing your deep bed. If you don’t know the difference between a shovel and a flat spade, check with your nurseryman. Make sure it’s a short-handled spade with a D-ring for your right hand.

• Pickaxe. You will find out that preparing a deep bed, especially from ground that has not been worked before, will be hard. A pick will start the job.

• Rake. Not the ‘yard-broom’ type with the bamboo tines, but the kind with the steel tines about 2-3 inches apart, extending down about 4 inches from the bow. Again, check with your nurseryman.

• Hand trowel. Great for the small holes.

• Watering can.

• Any other tool that you’ve used, think are worthwhile, and can find room for.

Take these tools and clean them carefully. Wipe the metal parts with a thin coat of oil to stop the rust, put ‘em all in a big canvas bag, and store them by the bucket.

I mentioned three additional things, and tools are only one. The other two things you need are:

• Education. Read your books. If you have a chance, plant a mini garden (not from your bucket supplies!) in your back yard or patio. Read some more. The final thing you need is:

• Good Luck. You’ve done your planning right, you have the knowledge, tools, and seeds. When the time comes, you’ll be able to make your move. What’re you waiting for?

Build your bucket! Feed your family!


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Posted: May 31 2004, 06:57 AM
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Excellent article Off. Exactly what I've been looking for to add to this forum. Perhaps others of you have more such ideas that you would care to share in the general discussion topic under my emergency survival thread?

May you know Love and Laughter in your life.
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