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> Preperations for an emergency., It's not too late but time is short.

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Posted: May 28 2004, 11:13 AM
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We all should be prepered for emergency situations of various natures. Wether it's global or political the times are not stable and having a few preperations made will make your survivial much easier than if you are caught flat footed.

A self reliant lifestyle, put simply, means anyone can be independent of "the system," building toward as much self sufficiency as possible, given the limits of present day living conditions. Should the electric power go out or natural disasters leave you isolated, plenty of stored food and water, plus heat and cooking systems, etc, will enable your family to continue to be warm and nourished during the emergency and beyond. If Martial Law is declared or terrorist attacks occur, you need not leave the safety of your home, unless your individual foresight and planning include an "early out" to a retreat with pre-positioned supplies. You will have stored food and water, essential to life. Add in faith, and we will wait him out. Remember the seven lean years!

The concepts involved in self reliant living are simple. The implementation is not. It takes dedication and effort to prepare for adversity. The beneficial need of prudent preparations are self evident. With proper preparedness comes security and peace of mind. Problems will slide away as you enable yourself to believe in your ability to just live without fear and struggle. You will not have to rely on government handouts, a community shelter, a food line, or daily onerous trips laden down with milk jugs to the county water tanker truck if available. Those who are not prepared will be controlled. Those who are prepared can live free. The choice is yours to make.

So, how does one become prepared? Preparation is more than reading a book on how to identify edible wild plants, written by an armchair theorist whose worst nightmare is not finding a parking place for his Volvo in front of his favorite Starbucks. Real preparation is work, hard work, and it is not free. This web site is free, and it prints out at over 2000 pages, so clicking the links at the bottom of this page will take you to over 760 individual sites, all within this one web site. is a guideline for preparations for virtually any future calamity, but I am NOT so arrogant as to tell you that skimming through this site in one night is the salvation to your survival can hear that from the city slickers dreaming about how wonderful life would be if we all lived in harmony in nature and food magically appeared on the table three times a day. Self reliant living is a lifestyle, not a weekend game! Real preparations take a lot of thought and action on your part.

You, just you as an individual or family group, have to take action, really do something, to prepare on your own for your own survival. I can help with the wisdom that comes from having lived a self reliant lifestyle, having made the mistakes, purchased the products that do not work, and point you in the right direction for the best preparations at the least cost, and I can show you photos with the proof that I have done it myself, and therefore it is possible. The rest is up to you.

What is written above is pretty tame. George Tenet, CIA Director, said on February 23, 2004 that the United States will be menaced by Islamic extremism "for the foreseeable future" - a war with no end.

On February 24, 2004, Edgar Steele said: " need to ensure that you personally prepare for the coming hard times. Some will think you nuts. But, there are things you can do quietly and covertly, even in that context. Most importantly, you must plan now and be ready to implement that plan the moment the wheels come off. If you live in a city, you need to plan how to get out in the event of a catastrophe. Immediately. Not the next day. Not that night. Immediately." Please read the entire article at the link tracks almost word for word with what I wrote in 1997 in my booklet, "Evacuation and Relocation," but I include the specifics and details...the actual "how to."

One of the better sites for pulling yourself out of the system and being prepared for many eventualities or catastrophies. Not sure if this link has been shared here before and sorry for double posting it if it has been.

May you know Love and Laughter in your life.
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Posted: May 28 2004, 11:14 AM
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Another site with plenty of printable information to aid in surviving various situations. I've looked it over and given it 5 howls out of 5 rating.

May you know Love and Laughter in your life.
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Posted: May 28 2004, 11:16 AM
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What ya gonna do when the barbarians come for you?

For starters every one should have the means to hand to defend themselves and thier families from the ravening hordes of ill wishers who want what you have because they didn't have the foresight to supply themselves with what they needed to survive.

My starting recommendation is one side arm for each adult member of the family with some spare pistols stored away just in case. I also recommend at least one high powered hunting rifle and one shot gun per family unit. Make sure that you have plenty of ammunition stored in a cool and dry place preferably in a water tight container and correctly labeled. Obviously if you buy all the same kind of hand gun you can get much more use out of that ammunition as compared to buying 4 different kinds of gun with 4 different kinds of ammunition. If one breaks down or is irretrievably lost then you have a bunch of usless ammo sitting around that you cannot use in another fire arm.

My personal preferences are a Colt Python Elite .357 revolver with a 4" barrel, adjustable sights and some quick loaders for a pistol and the US Repeating Arms/ Winchester Model 94 Trapper .357 rifle with a 9+1 capacity and a 16" barrel. Uses the same ammo, stainless steel construction, enough stopping power to halt just about anything that is coming your way, easy to use with recoil that is not too bad considering the fire power. The basic ammo is fairly common as well as being easy to make in a pinch and if you keep your casings. In an extreme pinch either of these arms will use .38 ammo but the barrels will need to be re-bored or replaced afterwards.

After you have fire arms you may want to consider some more silent weapons such as a crossbow or long bow. It takes a fair bit more practice with a long bow to be much of a shot with it compared to a crossbow but either is a terrific choice if you know how to use one. Keep your arrows or bolts dry so that they don't warp and your strings dry also so that they do not become brittle and you have a hunting tool that will last you for a long time. A cheep and simple devise called an "Arrow Straightener" is also recommended just in case they do warp a bit. Most hunting supply stores that carry bows of any sort will have one and they are relatively cheep or you can go look at one and make one of your own.

What about when it comes down to hand to hand style combat? You should already have a variety of axes, machetes and knives around for in a pinch situations. Some form of martial arts is also recommended not only for the confidence it will give you along with the health benifits of being physically fit but they do help when it comes to fighting your way out of a situation and staying alive. Depending on the form you study you may also want to start working on your 'attitude'. In a pinch anything is a weapon. Throw a table, a chair, a lamp, pillows, dinner plates, pill bottles, or anything else that comes to hand. They may not in-capacitate your foe but it will buy time for you to get to where you forgot your pistol or to get to something else that will stop an intruder or give you time to make enough of a withdrawal that you can evade the intruders by getting out completely.

If anyone else has any advise I'd be happy to read it or if you have questions about any of the above feel free to ask away and I'll do my best to answer your questions or provide links to the answers.

May you know Love and Laughter in your life.
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Posted: May 28 2004, 11:20 AM
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Basic Survival Skills:

100 Items That Disappear First In A Disaster:

NOTE: This list was first assembled by Joseph Almond prior to Y2K. However, it is valid to consider these as "extremely desirable items" in the event of nearly any disaster. Modify as you see fit.

On more than one occasion recently, Stan and I witnessed generators virtually evaporate. Ditto for portable toilets.

1. Generators
(Good ones cost dearly. Gas storage, risky. of thieves; maintenance, etc.)

2. Water Filters/Purifiers

3. Portable Toilets (Increasing in price every two months.)

4. Seasoned Firewood
(About $100 per cord; wood takes 6 - 12 mos. to become dried, for home uses.)

5. Lamp Oil, Wicks, Lamps
(First choice: Buy CLEAR oil. If scarce, stockpile ANY!)

6. Coleman Fuel
(URGENT $2.69-$3.99/gal. Impossible to stockpile too much.)

7. Guns, Ammunition, Pepper Spray, Knives, Clubs, Bats and Slingshots

8. Hand-Can openers and hand egg beaters, whisks (Life savers!)

9. Honey/Syrups/white, brown sugars

10. Rice - Beans - Wheat
Sam's Club, stock depleted often.)

11. Vegetable oil (for cooking)
(Without it food burns/must be boiled, etc.)

12. Charcoal and Lighter fluid (Will become scarce suddenly.)

13. Water containers
(Urgent Item to obtain. Any size. Small: HARD CLEAR PLASTIC ONLY)

14. Mini Heater head (Propane) (Without it, propane won't heat a room.)

15. Grain Grinder (Non-electric)

16. Propane Cylinders

17. Michael Hyatt's Y2K Survival Guide
(BEST single y2k handbook for sound advice/tips.)

18. Mantles: Aladdin, Coleman, etc.
(Without this item, longer-term lighting is difficult.)

19. Baby Supplies: Diapers/formula/ointments/aspirin, etc

20. Washboards, Mop Bucket w/wringer (for Laundry)

21. Cook stoves
(Propane, Coleman and Kerosene)

22. Vitamins
(Critical, due 10 Y2K-forced daily canned food diets.)

23. Propane Cylinder Handle-Holder
(Urgent: Small canister use is dangerous without this item.)

24. Feminine Hygiene/Haircare/Skin products

25. Thermal underwear
(Tops and bottoms)

26. Bow saws, axes and hatchets and Wedges (also, honing oil)

27. Aluminum foil Reg. and Heavy. Duty
(Great Cooking and Barter item)

28. Gasoline containers
(Plastic or Metal)

29. Garbage bags
(Impossible to have too many.)

30. Toilet Paper, Kleenex, paper towel

31. Milk - Powdered and Condensed
(Shake liquid every 3 to 4 months.)

32. Garden seeds (Non-hybrid) (A MUST)

33. Clothes pins/line/hangers (A MUST)

34. Coleman's Pump Repair Kit: 1(800) 835-3278

35. Tuna Fish (in oil)

36. Fire extinguishers
(or. large box of Baking soda per room)

37. First aid kits

38. Batteries (all furthest-out for Expiration Dates)

39. Garlic, spices and vinegar, baking supplies

40. BIG DOGS (and plenty of dog food)

41. Flour, yeast and salt

42. Matches
("Strike Anywhere" preferred. Boxed, wooden matches will go first.)

43. Writing paper/pads/pencils/solar calculators

44. Insulated ice chests
(good for keeping items from freezing in Wintertime)

45. Work boots, belts, Levis and durable shirts

46. Flashlights/Light Sticks and torches, "No.76 Dietz" Lanterns

47. Journals, Diaries and Scrapbooks
(Jot down ideas, feelings, experiences: Historic times!)

48. Garbage cans Plastic
(great for storage, water, transporting - if with wheels)

49. Men's Hygiene: Shampoo, Toothbrush/paste, Mouthwash/floss, nail clippers, etc

50. Cast iron cookware (sturdy, efficient)

51. Fishing supplies/tools

52. Mosquito coils/repellent sprays/creams

53. Duct tape

54. Tarps/stakes/twine/nails/rope/spikes

55. Candles

56. Laundry detergent (Liquid)

57. Backpacks and Duffle bags

58. Garden tools and supplies

59. Scissors, fabrics and sewing supplies

60. Canned Fruits, Veggies, Soups, stews, etc.

61. Bleach
(plain, NOT scented: 4 to 6% sodium hypochlorite)

62. Canning supplies (Jars/lids/wax)

63. Knives and Sharpening tools: files, stones, steel

64. Bicycles.Tires/tubes/pumps/chains

65. Sleeping bags and blankets/pillows/mats

66. Carbon Monoxide Alarm (battery powered)

67. Board Games Cards, Dice

68. d-Con Rat poison, MOUSE PRUFE II, Roach Killer

69. Mousetraps, Ant traps and cockroach magnets

70. Paper plates/cups/utensils

71. Baby Wipes, oils, waterless and Anti-bacterial soap
(saves a lot of water)

72. Rain gear, rubberized boots, etc.

73. Shaving supplies
(razors and creams, talc, after shave

74. Hand pumps and siphons
(for water and for fuels)

75. Soy sauce, vinegar, bouillons/gravy/soup base

76. Reading glasses

77. Chocolate/Cocoa/Tang/Punch (water enhancers)

78. "Survival-in-a-Can"

79. Woolen clothing, scarves/ear-muffs/mittens

80. Boy Scout Handbook
(also, Leader's Catalog)

81. Roll-on Window Insulation Kit (MANCO)

82. Graham crackers, saltines, pretzels, Trail mix/Jerky

83. Popcorn, Peanut Butter, Nuts

84. Socks, Underwear, T-shirts, etc. (extras)

85. Lumber (all types)

86. Wagons and carts
(for transport to and from open Flea markets)

87. Cots and Inflatable Mattresses (for extra guests)

88. Gloves: Work/warming/gardening, etc.

89. Lantern Hangers

90. Screen Patches, glue, nails, screws, nuts and bolts

91. Teas

92. Coffee

93. Cigarettes

94. Wine/Liquors (for bribes, medicinal, etc.)

95. Paraffin wax

96. Glue, nails, nuts, bolts, screws, etc.

97. Chewing gum/candies

98. Atomizers (for cooling/bathing)

99. Hats and cotton neckerchiefs

100. Goats/chickens

May you know Love and Laughter in your life.
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Posted: May 28 2004, 11:26 AM
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Know your first aid and have a well stocked kit handy. Have a bug out plan with a predetermined safe location to meet your family and friends. Know your survival and self defense techniques. Keep a supply of dried and canned food ready to go with you if you do have to bug out. Have equipment to aid in your safety and survival that does not rely on electicity such as a hand can opener and an axe as well as other sorts of hand powered equipment. Make sure everyone knows what to do in case of the various types of emergency situations that can happen.

As always, contributions and debate to this topic is expected and encouraged.

May you know Love and Laughter in your life.
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Posted: May 28 2004, 11:34 AM
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Excellent info LaughingWolf! I don't have everything on the list but I always try to keep things on hand for natural disasters. After being stuck in a blizzard years ago,
the electricity was out for 10 days and that was the most difficult part. Thanks for your effort putting this info together for us.

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Posted: May 28 2004, 11:38 AM
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Most of the items on that list you can live without Grace. That's just a list of things that disapear quickly in an emergency situation.

May you know Love and Laughter in your life.
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Minister Of Information
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Posted: May 29 2004, 07:10 AM
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Excellent info LaughingWolf!

In this day and time it would be behooving to have (1) a plan and contingency (2) supplies.

The world power has corrupted the world's population to a point where it's hard to experience unprogrammed joy. It's no fun to live this way anymore. Quality of life is in a constant decline while the elite suffers none. There were many, many great civilizations before us and they disappeared. Why would it be so improbable now? The earth's ressonance (frequency) has been, and is rising dramatically. Native Americans have made their warnings known and are preparing themselves now. Cellestial activities and signs are another piece to the puzzle along with unfounded military activities, uncivilized additional control imposed on us, and the illogic of occupying other countries.

Yes, it would be smart time and money spent to prepare to live, in case you do.

Every second is a choice you make. Choose well.

Wherever you go, there you are. You can't escape.
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Posted: May 29 2004, 12:59 PM
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Bug out or evacuation kits? Do you have one ready? Unfortunately I don't have mine completed yet but it's on my list of things to do asap.

Find a large hiking style back pack with the aluminum frame and the lower back support. Multiple pockets on the outside of the pack are encouraged for ease of finding some of the smaller items but not really needed. Solid and sturdy comfortable hiking boots and a sturdy leather belt are definately recommended.

1 complete change of clothes. (socks, underwear, long pants, long sleeve shirt)
1 hand can opener. (swiss army knife or multi function leatherman type tool is ok)
1 or 2 boxes of strike anywhere waterproof matches.
3 days supply of food. (for portability and nutritional value granola type bars are good).
3 days supply of water in small hard bottles or canteens.
1 water filtration devise.
1 small hand axe or hatchet.
1 small sewing repair kit.
1 filtration mask. (Make sure it's not the little masks you get to work in dusty areas. Something more like a military surplus mask is recommended.).
1 reflective survival blanket or cold weather sleeping bag. (This can be tied to the outside of certain back packs.)
1 6' x 8' plastic tarp or small dome tent. (This also can be tied to the outside of certain back packs.)
1 stainless steel pot and a stainless steel pan for cooking and other uses. (Cast iron is ok but heavier than the stainless. Avoid the tephlon stuff as it wears out or scratches and you end up with tephlon flakes in your system.)
Ammo for your fire arms in waterproof containers such as sure seal zip lock bags.

You should already have a belt holster for your side arm and with the sewing kit and some cloth you can improvise a holster for your rifle or shot gun on your back pack for an over the shoulder draw. A sturdy walking stick of some sort is also recommended. The going could get rough and that walking stick could mean the difference between you making the climb and you losing your balance and not making the climb. A sturdy and solid knife of some sort with a sheath should be attached to your belt on the opposite side of your hand gun for balance. Keep the gun on your 'good' side (left handed put it on the left, right handed on the right) for ease of reach when needed to back off the barbarians. The gun is prefered for this and not the knife, peace through superior firepower, with luck you won't even have to waste any bullets on them and they will no longer have you tagged as an easy mark.

If you still have room in the back pack you can add other stuff like heritage seeds (non-gm seeds that produce thier own seeds), survival manuals if needed and whatever else you feel you need to take with you. This list is by no means complete and feel free to add on to it. This is just the basic minimums needed for a 3 day hike to a predetermined meeting place for friends and family in the event of a calamity.

May you know Love and Laughter in your life.
PMEmail PosterUsers Website



Posted: May 31 2004, 07:31 AM
Quote Post
1. Introduction

Potatoes are great food. The Irish lived on them for years; and if there’s one vegetable that provides more nourishment for the effort to raise them, I can’t think of it. You can store potatoes for quite a while in a root cellar, and they are pretty low-maintenance plants to grow.

Two disadvantages of these tubers is that they are often damaged when harvesting, since growers typically use a potato-fork (which is a sort of blunt-edged pitchfork) to harvest them, and that often splits the potatoes; and, they take up a lot of room in the garden.

The tater tire-tower is a way to solve both problems, as well as to cut down on weeding.

2. How to Do It

You’ll need three or four old tires of the same size – I’ve used ones from light trucks or full-size cars. If the tires are NOT steel-belted radials, you can cut the sidewalls off with an electric keyhole saw to get a bit more production, but it’s not absolutely necessary. If you live in a hot area, you should paint the tires a light color to reflect the sunlight and keep the soil a bit cooler. Even if cooling the soil were not a problem, I’d paint the tires just to make the tower look better.

Clear a flat area about four feet in diameter, removing all weeds. Lay a tire flat, and fill it up with good soil, including the amendments you’d usually use for roots and tuber crops. Plant the potato-eyes or already-sprouted plants at the appropriate depth. When the plants are a couple of inches high, stack a second tire on top of the first one, and gently fill it with dirt, too. Of course, you’ll cover up the newly-sprouted plants, but that shouldn’t be a problem. It might be best to have someone hold the sprouts straight up, so they won’t have to put forth as much effort to grow up through the new soil.

Now, plant more potato-eyes or already-sprouted plants in the new soil. The new plants and the old ones should clear the surface at about the same time. Of course, by now there’ll be twice as many plants competing for light, so make sure they get enough sun. When the plants are a couple of inches above the new layer, repeat the process with the third and (if you choose) the fourth tire.

When harvest time comes, dismantle the tower (you might need a helper for this, since the dirt-filled tires will be pretty heavy) one tire at a time, and the potatoes will just roll out. Gently brush the dirt off the taters and store them on layers of straw in a cool, dark place. They’ll keep for quite a while, as long as they’re not bruised or cut.

Remember that the soil should be added gently to the second, third, and fourth layers. This helps keep the newly-buried shoots from getting crushed, and also allows good irrigation (remember, those first-generation taters are in pretty deep, and you need to make sure the water percolates down to their level). You might also want to bore a couple of holes in the side of the tater-tower near ground level, so the water doesn’t collect in the bottom and rot the taters.

The first time I tried this, I got almost a bushel of taters from four truck tires. Neighbors would run in fear whenever I appeared at their door with my crop. It’s almost like zucchini (except that you can do a lot more with taters than you can with zucchini)!

I have only grown Idaho potatoes this way, but I see no reason why red potatoes (or even sweet potatoes and yams) wouldn’t work.

Good luck!




Posted: May 31 2004, 10:58 AM
Quote Post

by Off_the_Street

1. Introduction

Lack of good drinking water kills more children (especially in the Third World) than almost anything else. Microorganisms in a water supply can cause dysentery, which can lead to diarrhea and fatal dehydration. Recently, many health workers throughout the world have developed inexpensive pasteurization ponds that provide people with all the fresh water they need.

Most illnesses from water come from bacteria and other microorganisms that can be killed by pasteurization. Pastuerization is heating the fluid (water, in this case) to a temperature of about 175 deg F and holding it for a half-hour. If your health problems can be solved by this method, you can build a pasteurization pond that will provide safe water for a large group.

2. How this Article is Structured

This paper shows how you can build a solar (sun)-powered pasteurization pond. It will take in impure water, heat it to pasteurization temperature, and allow you to collect it. Bear in mind that the dimensions are variable, depending on how much water you need to pasteurize. Section 3 contains detailed construction instructions, and Section 4 explains how it operates.

One document that is not included is a BOM (bill of materials). Since you can build this pond in a wide range of dimensions, each BOM will be unique to your own sizing.

3. How to Build the Pasteurization Pond

 Level an area of ground ten by twenty feet.

 Dig a pond in the middle of the cleared area sixteen feet long, six feet wide, and eight inches deep. Use some of the excavated dirt to make a berm around the pond four inches high and four inches wide. At one end of the pond, dig a sump about eighteen inches in diameter and an additional eight inches deep.

 Pack the dirt carefully. If you have it available, line the pond, berm, and sump with chicken wire or hardware cloth, and rebar.

 Using a portland cement/sand/gravel mix available in your area, line the sump, berm, and pond to a depth of 2 or 3 inches. For a two-inch depth, this will require about 38 cu ft or 1.4 cu yd of concrete; for a three-inch depth, you will need about 58 cu ft or 2.1 cu yd. Let the concrete cure for several days as required for your climate and time of year.

 Line the pond with black 3-mil poly sheeting. Use a single sheet if possible.

Figure 1 shows what the pond should look now like (in cross section).

user posted image

Using a hose, fill the pond within three inches of the berm’s rim with water. This means the water will be about five inches deep in the pond. Fill the pond from the side away from the sump, and secure the hose in place.

 Place a floating thermometer, available form a pool or hot-tub store, in the water at the sump end, so that the base of the thermometer is down in the sump.

 Run another section of hose from below the surface of the water at the sump end, over the top of the berm, and secure it in place.

 Place a dozen or so styrofoam balls on the top of the water, then cover the pond with 2-mil clear plastic. Stretch the plastic over the entire pond, berm, and the two hoses, anchoring it with dirt and rocks. The floating styrofoam balls will support the clear plastic and keep an air space between it and the water’s surface.

Figure 2 shows the cross-section again, this time with the water, hoses, balls, thermometer, and sheeting in place.

4. How the Pasteurization Pond Works

When you fill the pond with water via the fill hose (the water should be filtered first to remove suspended particulates), it begins to heat up. The clear plastic acts just like a greenhouse, letting the light through but trapping most of the heat. Depending on the amount of the sunlight and the depth of the water, the water should reach about 170 –190 deg F within four to six hours. Since the coldest water is in the sump (because cold water is heavier and sinks), when you see a temperature reading of 175 deg F, you know the rest of the water is at least that hot.

Let the water stay at that temperature for a couple of hours, and drain off the hot water with the drain hose as needed. It should now be free of most live bacteria and other pathogens; and, after cooling in a clean container, is ready for use.

Once you’ve drained off enough of the pasteurized water, fill the pond again and let the water heat up once more. You don’t need to remove the clear plastic cover when re-filling.

If you siphon off just the top two inches of a 16’ X 6’ pond each day, you will have 5.33 cu ft or 42 gal of pasteurized water per day. Playing it safe and assuming that you will only be able to get half that much (assuming some cold or overcast days), that’s still more than 2 gallons of safe drinking water per day per person for a dozen people.

Best of all, your fuel source (the sun) is free; and, if you change the plastic cover every six months or so (since UV light may degrade it), you and your group may be assured of safe drinking water indefinitely.




Posted: May 31 2004, 11:19 AM
Quote Post

by Off_the_Street

1. Introduction

Lack of good drinking water kills more children (especially in the Third World) than almost anything else. Microoganisms in a water supply can cause dysentery, which can lead to diarrhea and fatal dehydration. Recently, many health workers throughout the world have developed inexpensive solar-powered distillation units, or stills, and pasteurization ponds that provide people with all the fresh water they need.

Most illnesses from water come from bacteria and other microorganisms that can be killed by pasteurization. Pastuerization is heating the fluid (water, in this case) to a temperature of about 175 deg F and holding it for a half-hour. If your health problems can be solved by this method, you can build a pasteurization pond that will provide safe water for a large group.

Distillation is different. Distilling water actually turns it into a vapor by heating it, and the water vapor (which has left behind all the organisms as well as any other impurities in the water) is condensed (turned back into liquid water) and collected. Distilled water is more pure and safer than pasteurized water, and no longer contains any dissolved solids like calcium carbonate. Also, distilled water should be used in batteries, electric irons, and anyplace else where you don’t want dissolved solids to clog up the appliance.

2. How this Article is Structured

This paper shows how you can build a solar (sun)-powered still. It will take in impure water, turn it to water vapor (steam), condense it back to distilled water, and collect it. Section 3 explains the principles of operation, Section 4 contains detailed construction instructions, and Section 5 overviews operations and maintenance.

One document that is not included is a BOM (bill of materials). Since you can build this still in a wide range of dimensions, each BOM will be unique to your own sizing. The most expensive and hard-to-find item, of course, is the tempered glass face. I would suggest you get the best deal you can on a pane of tempered glass over three by three feet, and size the still from that.

3. How the Solar Still Works

The still is a flat box, hinged so that the top and the bottom are the same size. The box is tilted about five degrees from horizontal; this is the “high end”. The top of the box is made of tempered glass, and the bottom is lined with black plastic. At the high end of the box is a polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipe with holes drilled in it. This pipe is connected to a hose that brings in the impure water. When the hose is turned on, the water pressure is set so that the water dribbles slowly out of the holes in the PVC pipe and down the bottom of the still (the part covered with black plastic). Gravity pulls the water down to the low end of the still, and covers the black plastic.

When the still is in the sun, the inside temperature rises quickly, and the thin film of water running down the inside begins to evaporate. It rises and condenses on the underside of the glass plate, and runs down to the low side. At the low edge of the glass plate is a trough made of PVC pipe. The distilled water drips into the trough and runs out a hole in the side of the still, through a small tube, and into the container that you are using to store the water.

4. Building the Solar Still

There is no absolute dimensional requirement for the still; the larger you make it the more it will produce (and cost). The still we built was four feet wide, four feet high, and six inches deep. Since that’s what the figure shows, too, we’ll use those dimensions for purposes of discussion.

user posted image

user posted image

1. Build the lower half. The base is a piece of 1/2” CDX plywood, four feet on a side. With the C side up, screw four 4” X 2-1/2” sides, also of 1/2” CDX, to the perimeter of the 4 X 4 plywood and to each other. Using a single piece of 2-mil black poly sheeting, line the inside of the box up to about an inch above the bottom. Secure the edges of the poly to the sides of the box with brads. Do not puncture the poly sheeting; if you do, water could leak through and damage the plywood. Set the lined box aside.

2. Build the upper half. The base is a wooden frame, four feet on a side, into which the glass is placed and secured as convenient. Screw four 4” X 2-1/2” sides, also of 1/2” CDX, to the perimeter of the frame and to each other. Set aside.

3. Prepare and install the inflow tube. Cut a piece of Schedule 40 3/4” ID PVC pipe fifty inches long. Starting about four inches from the end, drill a series of 1/8” holes about three inches apart until you get to within four inches of the other end. Drill a 3/4-inch hole through the side of the lower half as shown in the cross-section view. Carefully cut a hole in the black poly lining and slide in the inflow tube.

With the inflow tube partly in, cap the end with a PVC end cap. Slide the tube in the rest of the way until the capped end is resting snugly against the side of the box away from the hole. Secure that end. Now twist the tube until the row of holes is facing downward and almost touching the black poly lining, (These are the holes from which the water will come out and flow down the lining.)

The other end of the inflow tube should be sticking out about an inch and a half from the hole. Using a non-toxic silicone sealant, carefully caulk the inside and outside of the hole, so that there will not be any leakage around the pipe and underneath the black poly lining.

Glue the appropriate fitting to the protruding end of the inflow tube to attach the garden hose, or whatever tubing you will use to deliver the untreated water.

4 Prepare and install the collection trough. Cut a piece of Schedule 40 1-1/2” PVC pipe as long as the inside width of the upper half (about 47 inches). Then cut the pipe lengthwise, ending up with two troughs. (You will only use one; save the other one for a second still if you choose to build it.)

Place the trough as shown in the cross section view. Attach it, using small brass screws, to the end of the upper half. The trough should be butting against both sides of the upper half. Using a non-toxic silicone sealant, carefully caulk the ends of the trough, so that no water can leak back down into the lower half after it’s condensed. Drill a 3/4” hole in the side of the upper end so that it exactly matches the bottom of the trough, and insert a two-inch-long piece of 3/4” Schedule 40 PVC pipe. (This is how the water in the trough will flow out of the still.)

5. Assemble the still. Carefully invert the upper half and place it over the lower half. At the inflow end, mark for two hinges and install them. (This will allow you to open up the still to periodically clean it.) Glue a rubber strip along the rim of the lower half where it meets the upper half. (This makes the still watertight, which avoids contamination and increases its thermal efficiency.) At the outflow end, mark for several spring latches (similar to those on a musical instrument case) and install them. (This will keep the still tightly closed unless you want to clean it.)

6 Set up the still. Choose an unshaded outside location, and place the still about five degrees from horizontal facing south (if you’re north of the equator). Attach the hose from the untreated water container to the inflow tube. Attach the tube from the collecting trough to the container you’re using to collect your distilled water. Start the water flow.

Adjust the inflow water volume so that the water dribbles down the black poly lining. Once the still reaches stagnation temperature, adjust the volume so that the water never quite reaches the lower end of the still. As the water evaporates away from the hot black poly lining, you will see droplets form on the underside of the glass surface. As gravity pulls these drops down to the trough, check to make sure the distilled water can flow unimpeded out of the trough, through the discharge tube, and into the collecting and storage container. You may have to tilt the still about one degree to the discharge side so that the trough doesn’t overflow.

5. Operations and Maintenance

The amount of distilled water depends primarily on the heat of the still. During summer in the Sonoran Desert, our 4’ X 4’ model produced about a liter an hour. This is probably the optimum; a sunny winter day, you’d be lucky to get half that output. Unlike a solar panel, the angle of which you can adjust to face the sun, the solar still must stay at about a five degree from horizontal orientation; or else the water would flow down the black poly lining faster than it would evaporate. However, experimenting with the proper angle and the optimum inflow volume will provide the best results.

You can also attach acardboard or plywood piece covered with aluminized mylar to the top or side of the still and angle it to concentrate more sunlight on the black plastic.

If your untreated water is “hard” (i.e., it has dissolved calcium carbonate in it), you will have to open the still up on a regular basis to clean the inflow tube’s holes and wash away the deposits from the folds in the black poly lining. Do this carefully; you don’t want to accidentally rip the lining – that would decrease distillation efficiency and allow the water to soak into the plywood.

I am not aware of anyone who has used this still to distill seawater, although it can be done. However, if you do so, you will get a much faster buildup of precipitated salts, and will probably have to rinse the inside and clean the inflow tube holes much more often.


Minister Of Information
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Member No.: 173

Posted: Jun 1 2004, 11:20 PM
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Rifleman tactics as posted by Rear View at GLP.


I have heard many "new" second amendment converts ask "but what can one man do against an army." The following is an opinion recently published which may begin to answer this question. It is in "Fred´s" column.

The following is protected speech under the 1st Amendment. It is strictly hypothetical, and no one is urged to take any unlawful action. The discussion is for educational purposes only to stimulate thought about an important topic, defending constitutional rights.

Existance of the 2nd amendment implies willingness and ability to exercise rights protected by that amendment.The original purpose was to provide citizens with means to check a runaway government - what has been called the "ultimate safety net." But it also implies a DUTY to be ready to use ´em - or be ready to lose ´em.

In the future one is likely to see a weak US government experiencing increasing difficulty enforcing confiscatory gun laws, and "invites" assistance from the UN, setting the stage for the integration of the US into a world government. Liberals worship the UN, anyone associated with the UN or the Third World, and international law - and wouldn´t think twice about seeking outside help to manage unruly - in their eyes - criminals in the US population.

So all it may take is a liberal president and liberal control of Congress - and the rest of us are SOL.

That introduction sets the stage for a discussion of the second amendment rifleman, in which we (for now) narrowly focus on tactics which might be used by that rifleman to aid in the defense of our hard - won heritage of freedom.

First, equipment. 1st choice of weapon is a semi-auto M14, but if you don´t have one, an SKS or AR15 would be useful. You could even make people sit up and take notice with a Lee-Enfield if you practice enough to be fast on the bolt. Any other firearm is perfectly acceptable provided it - and you - can outshoot your opponent.

Since you may have to move to the encounter location, ammo in bandoleers and mags in pouches, along with 2 qts of water are a minimum. An emergency bandage and binocs would be useful (We are not talking about survival in the woods, merely movement to contact.)

The following will focus only on actions of the individual rifleman, and ignore two other important topics, some aspects of which may alter the following, namely Preparing the encounter location and teamwork.

The first rule would be to take no unnecessary risks. Think about it. You want to remain undetected until you reveal yourself with hits on the target, and even then you want asmuch cover as you can get.

Unseen means observing principles of camouflage: disruption of shape, prevention of shine, awareness of shadow, and moving either very fast or very slow. A 3´ by 4´ section cut out of camo screening will be very useful, along with garnishing your firearm to break up its distinctive shape - something as simple as wrapping a band of burlap diagonaly down the stock will do the trick.

Early target detection is a must in this case, your oponent will be on the move and your movement is simply to get you to the place where you can stop him (that is the essence of defense of home and community, and the first stage of defending freedom.) More than likely your opponent will bemotorized, so target detection will be fairly easy.

Cover means physical protection from hostile fire. That means you select your engagement location to preclude easy detection and expose the smallest possible area to the enemy.

Your mission is to harass, delay, and cause maximum casualties to the other side. If you are good enough, you can get several hits before the other side has time to react, thereby catching multiple targets unaware and exposed.

Engagement range will be a minimum of 300 yards, and preferably 400 or 500 yards - the "devil´s playground" - but for you the rifleman it is simply your work area. At the minimum range you will be outside the effective range of aimed rifle fire and need only worry about random rifle/MG fire - and automatic grenade launchers. And this last means you get the best cover possible. If air is afactor, make that overhead cover. Once your position is revealed you will immediately relocate to another position 50 or 100 yards away, although this time your targets will be vulnerable locations on vehicles and equipment (the uniformed personnel will be behind cover, you bet).

Now´s when you don´t push your luck. Better to get out and fall back to the next good position and wait for them to saddle up and come down the road again. Eventually, they will put out scouts to walk ahead and these will be "gimme" targets, until you´ve got them so demoralized they 1) stop for the night, 2) button up and ram their way down the road, or 3) vsll in fire support. By this time you should be ugging out, satisfied with a job well done, not pushing your luck - there´ll be other days.

Depending on the persistent stupidity or the quickness of the other side, you will have fired as few as a half dozen rounds or as many as 25-40 rounds.

But "Rome wasn´t built in a day," and the founding fathers will have another day to smile down on you for using the tools they have guaranteed for you so long ago.

Next time: Preparing the encounter location.

So now for those of you wondering about just what those gun you are duty bound to own are for, I will present part II tomorrow.

The following is protected speech under the 1st Amendment. Strictly hypothetical, no one is urged to take any Unlawful action. The discussion is for educational purposes only to stimulate thought about an important topic, defending constitutional rights.

As I promised, this is Part 2.

Unlike the embattled farmers of 1776, riflemen today have time and the opportunity to consider ways they might have to react to protect home and community from external aggression.

The first rule would be to take no unnecessary risks:Remain undetected until your bullets hit the target.

But if you can, give yourself additional insurance by preparing the encounter location. Boobytraps, deadfalls, barricades, diversions, even wildfires or phony mines can be used to distract, confuse, and disorganize the other side, reducing their ability to focus on you as the real threat.

You´ll need every help you can get to minimize risks and maximize impact. And if you can get a few hours - in some cases a few minutes - notice you will be in a better position to guide the outcome the way you want it to go.

Assume our friends are a UN convoy en route to wherever (what do you care where? When you see your natural enemy, it doesn´t matter what he´s doing or where he´s going - you stop him and do your best to take him out!)

Now, think about that ROAD-BOUND convoy....and the key: the road. The VC used to plant a command-detonated mine - guaranteed to piss everyone off! You too can prepare that road- if only with a primitive obstacle like a derelict vehichle or downed trees.

Then hit from an unexpected direction. For example, the convoy bumps up against your obstacle, and you hit the REAR of the convoy, not the front! If there is more than one of you, you can hit the front and rear, but that´s another story - for next time.

By the time they have cleaned up the mess and confusion at the rear of the convoy, you should have worked your way around to the front of the convoy and, just as they are pulling around your obstacle, you hit them again, disabling drivers and any vulnerable vehicles. (In the late 70´s, an Army general testified to Congress that there were 14 points on the Soviet T72 main battle tank where an expert rifleman could disable the tank. Armored vehicles are NOT safe from you - no, not at all.)

You use your rifleman skills and stay at least 300 yards out - if you have prepared the engagement area you know the exact range to critical points. It will make a real difference to your effectiveness. Heck, thin skinned vehicles are going to be easy meat at 400 and 500 yards (recall your batle-sight zero - simply go up 3 clicks for 400 and 4 more for 500 yards. Your 308 will have plenty of punch left to do the job. And the thin-skinned vehicles are what the convoy is all about. Stop them, and the job is done.)

Now remember, all we are doing is talking hypothetically about how you can use your rifleman skills in defense of your freedom from external aggression. No one wants to see it happen; no one is advocating you do anything but become a skilled shooter; few want to grab their firearms and go out to defend the country - but you have to consider these things if you are going to be prepared.

Dame History has a way of playing tricks on people - and nations. Never forget; those Chinese nukes are only 30 minutes away. Never forget the world-wide consensus of world leaders that small arms should be banned -world wide-. Think a liberal US president will fight hard on the world stage for your 2nd amendment? I don´t think so. And I don´t think he will look on the UN as an enemy - nope, UN forces will look - through his eyes - more like friends, you bet. What will be a world-class disaster to you - the loss of your freedom and your country´s sovereignty - he will view as "stabilizing" and himself a hero for bringing our country into compliance with "international law". Never forget it. And be prepared. Mentally and physically. If it ever happens again, a bunch of farmers with shotguns gathered on the village green will not do the trick. It will take riflemen who know what they are doing, who know the value of their skills, and the superiority over the enemy that possession of those skills gives - and who minimize risks...

next time: TEAMWORK!



The following is protected speech under the 1st Amendment, for educational purposes only to stimulate thought about an important topic, namely, defendng constitutional rights. No one is urged to take any unlawful action.

(Existence of the 2nd Amendment implies willingness & ability to exercise rights protected by the ´untimate safety net´ - and a DUTY to be ready to use ´em - or be ready to lose ´em.

A future scenario might be a US government which ´invites´ UN assistance to help impose rule of international law - including a ban on small arms...


When the time comes, the first to go under will be the ones who never see it coming, the ones who stick their heads in the sand and sneer "It´ll never happen here!" Next will be the risk-taking, self-sacrificing ´heroes´ who don´t know any better. The third bunch to go will be the loners, those who don´t have any friends or who can´t work with others. The ones left - the ones who are going to save this country - are the team players. Even as far back as 1940 team effctiveness was recognized:

"Experience has shown that in the absence of team training the fire of a group of riflemen in battle is poorly controlled and is haphazardly directed. This fact remains true even where every individual in the group is an expert shot....."military training manual, 1942.

Two or more riflemen acting together as a team, not only are more effective than as individual riflemen - by acting in concert, they also reduce the risk to each other!

What a great deal! More down-range effectiveness- with less risk! And the cost is nothing but a willingness to get together with others and shoot as a team.

Think about it. By dividing into more than one group, you can do the military "fire and maneuver´ tactic where one party keeps the enemy´s heads down and the other moves (but not to attack - that is not ordinarily the tactic of the rifleman, unless success without risk is assured). Even more important, one party can come to assistance when the other gets into water a little too hot.

Picture the classic convoy situation and two 3 man rifleman teams (most scenarios envision an invading force moving mostly by road, with the variables being the skill level of the opponent and the level of his air and artillery support). The encounter area has been prepared with fighting positions, a road blocker to stop the convoy, and ranges mapped out. Team A moves into position and opens fire at a prearranged point 500 yards from the convoy (Ideally, in such a position that the convoy will, if it continues moving, approach within 300 yards minimum of the team). Each member of Team A has an assigned target along with alternate targets to take out. The range is known precisely from pre-recon of the encounter area. Each team member has a good zero and can be counted on to get off 20 well aimed shots in 30-60 seconds. (Team SOP - Fire one mag rapid fire, cease fire and move to a designated spot.)

A 3 man team will therefore put 60 well-aimed rounds into the driver´s postions and any exposed personnel. A well-trained convoy will respond with MG fire in the direction of the initial attack. And here is where Team B steps in and reveals its presence.

By pre-arrangement, the cessation of fire from ´A´ will be the signal for ´B´ to fire one mag. Another 60 rounds into the convoy, this time from another direction, preferably the opposite direction to catch personel taking cover behind vehicles. Fire from the convoy is now distracted from ´A´, and the first signs of panic at being ´surrounded´ may already be popping out.

Team ´A´ has meantime shifted position and again dumps a mag apiece into the target. The convoy commander´s plate is filling fast as this ´3rd´ groun opens up- and 180 well-aimed shots have impacted on the convoy in just minutes. Meantime, Team ´B´, with fresh mags, is falling back to the next ´stop point´ for their ´round two´ with the convoy.

You begin to get the picture: Two or more groups can confuse and panic the enemy while taking pressure off each other and dividing attention and reaction. Riflemen working together to defend Constitutional freedoms as foreseen by the Founding Fathers can multiply the effects of their actions all out of proportion to actual numbers by working together as teams, unbalancing the enemy - and reducing the mutual risk!

And don´t forget the personal side of the equation. Those SOB´s in the convoy are the ones responsible for you having to get up, get dressed, get your firearm and ammo, trek a long way drinking tepid water from a canteen, and hear those 12.7´s cracking over your head. No wonder you´re aggravated! If those SOB´s are too stupid to know that they are not welcome here, that they should have stayed home - well at least you have the satisfaction of sending them the message - 20 well-aimed shots at a time! With any luck it will be British troops with German allies, and 1776 all over again. (I trust this time we sign the peace treaty in London - and let´s write a new British Constitution - with the ´right to keep & bear´ protected!)


It´s when you consider future possibilities that certain personal goals/standards become evident. Sure, shooting is fun, but you should never lose sight of the serious dimension absent in every other sport - the role of shooting - marksmanship - in protecting your freedoms - the safety of your family - of your community.

Maybe you read our series of "thoughts" on rifleman tactics. Maybe it lead you to re-evaluate what you should be doing at the range - maybe seriously working to improve your shooting, particularly rapid fire. Maybe you talked to another guy at the range, found out you were simpatico, and did a little team shooting with him.

And maybe it encouraged you to write a ´one minute´ - or several of them - periodically to your gov reps - something like "I am strongly against ANY more gun control - and I vote - and make sure my friends vote"!

If so, the series was worth writing, and worth printing. We all need to wake up to the seriousness of the present - and of the future. If you read the book "1984" and liked that world, do nothng - it´s coming true even now. Or you can stop it - if you get off the couch and do the ´one minute´ bit. And make sure you vote, and your friends vote. It´s that easy. And don´t forget to become a ´rifleman´!

As promised, the third installment. Of course, I fervently wish that these tactics will only have to be used in video games. Regards to all. And don´t anyone do anything stupid prematurely.

May you know Love and Laughter in your life.
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Minister Of Information
Group: Members
Posts: 234
Member No.: 173

Posted: Jun 2 2004, 09:02 AM
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How to Make a Solar Power Generator for Less Than $300

Using parts easily available from your local stores, you can make a small solar power generator for $250 to $300. Great for power failures and life outside the power grid. Power your computer, modem, vcr, tv, cameras, lights, or DC appliances anywhere you go.


Step by step instructions with diagrams and pictures. Very interesting.

May you know Love and Laughter in your life.
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Freedom Fighter
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Member No.: 114

Posted: Jun 2 2004, 09:58 AM
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Yes this is becoming a great forum!
bump to the top.

One silly question, why tuna fish in oil? and not water...
{from above lists}

Weaonry and ammo has to be protected as well, it will be a target of thieves and vagabonds.
Community enforcement and protectional unity will be necessay.
Be sure to know and be friends with your immediate neighbors.
You may have to fend off roving armed gangs in limited warfare.

Learn to use your guns properly, and get some target practice..

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